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1921 The first British reconnaissance expedition to Chomolungma was organized and funded by the newly created "Chomolungma Committee." The expedition was led by Colonel Charles Howard-Burie. Harold Reborn, George Mallory, Guy Bullock and Edward Oliver Wheeler participated in the expedition. The main task of the enterprise is reconnaissance and mapping of the Chomolungma in order to find an ascent route from the north side of the mountain. On September 23, 1921, George Mallory became the first person to set foot on Chomolungma. He, as well as Bullock and Wheeler, reached the North Saddle at an altitude of 7200 m above sea level, but then were forced to return due to weather conditions - strong winds rose. According to George Mallory, the planned ascent route, passing along the North Saddle to the intersection with the North-East Ridge, and further along the ridge to the summit, was, although long, but quite surmountable for a batch of climbers with fresh forces.
1922 The second British expedition goes to Chomolungma, led by General Charles Granville Bruce and leading climber, Lieutenant Colonel Edward Lisle Strutt. George Mallory, who returned here to make a full-scale attempt to climb the summit, was also included in the expedition. On May 22, they climbed the Northern Ridge and reached an altitude of 8170 m. They became the first climbers in the world to rise above 8000 meters above sea level. The next day, climbing participants George Finch and Jeffrey Bruce, for the first time in the history of mountaineering, used oxygen devices and climbed the North Ridge and North Wall even higher - to an elevation of 8320 m. Climbing from the North Saddle to the highest camp of that expedition, they also set a climbing speed record: 270 meters of altitude per hour. They spent the night in a high-altitude assault camp using oxygen devices.
On June 7, George Mallory made his third attempt at climbing. But on the steep walls of the North Saddle, the climbing group was hit by an avalanche. Seven Sherpas were killed. They became the first climbers to die on Chomolungma, whose deaths were reported.
1924 The third British expedition to Chomolungma starts, again led by Charles Bruce. From the very beginning, she met with serious problems due to the outbreak of malaria among the participants. The leadership of the expedition passed to Lieutenant Colonel Edward Felix Norton, and George Mallory became the leading climber. Bruce, Howard Somerwell and John Noel remained from the previous expeditions. The newcomers were Noel Odell and Andrew Irwin.
On June 2, Mallory and Bruce left the North Saddle (Camp IV of this expedition) to make the first attempt to climb the summit. But extreme wind and cold, exhaustion and the refusal of porters to go further forced Mallory to abandon the ascent, and the next day this group returned to camp on the North Saddle.
On June 4, favorable weather was established. Norton and Somerwell attempted the ascent without the use of oxygen appliances. Somerwell was forced to interrupt the ascent at an altitude of about 8525 m due to a sore throat, and Norton continued to climb alone and reached an altitude of 8575 meters above sea level. Only 275 m vertically remained to the summit of Chomolungma. But Norton was already completely exhausted and could not complete the ascent.
On June 8, Mallory and Irwin left the high-altitude camp at an altitude of 8200 m and made another attempt to climb the summit using Irwin's modified oxygen devices. Odell, going in security below, wrote in his diary that at an altitude of 7925 m he "saw Mallory and Irwin on a ridge approaching the base of the final pyramid." Odell then considered that at 12:50 they were overcoming the very difficult Second Stage.
And that was the last time Mallory and Irvine were seen alive. Whether they reached the summit or not, whether they died when climbing or already when descending from the highest peak, is still a mystery.
According to the most likely scenario, they reached the First Stage around 10:30 a.m. Mallory, assessing how unreliable the traverse to the Second Stage is, passed it alone. Realizing what the main difficulty of completing the ascent was, he decided to return, take Irwin with him and climb to the First Stage to look around and photograph the approaches to the Second Stage. As they ascended that little ledge, Odell just saw them from below. He suggested that since they rise for so long, they should already be on the Second Stage (but did not think that Irwin and Mallory could go down and go back and forth several times). Irwin and Mallory, being in a bunch, continued to descend from the First Stage, when at about 14:00 a serious snow charge hit them. Mallory, walking in front, slipped in the snow that fell on him, fell off and pulled Irwin behind him. The rope was wrapped around the waist of Mallory and (possibly) Irwin, causing them serious injuries. Some researchers believe that Irwin was able to stay on his feet, and after that he walked along the Northeast Ridge for another 100 yards (90 meters) before he died from cold and possible injuries. Other researchers believe Mallory and Irwin went their separate ways after falling due to almost complete white haze inside the snow charge. Mallory continued his descent in search of a comrade, while Irwin, also wounded, continued to descend diagonally to the Yellow Edge
2024
Drones have started delivering loads and cleaning up rubbish on Everest
Drones began to carry out cargo delivery and garbage collection on Everest, greatly facilitating the tasks of climbers and contributing to the preservation of the cleanliness of the mountain. The initiative is being implemented as part of a new project launched by the Nepalese government in conjunction with DJI Delivery and their partners. Read more here.
With the help of a drone delivered cargo to Everest
DJI, in collaboration with Nepalese Airlift, 8KRAW first carried out the delivery of cargo to Everest using a drone. This confirms the possibility of quick and safe supply for climbers. The FlyCart 30 drone, capable of carrying up to 15 kg of cargo, covered the distance from the base camp at an altitude of 12 meters to the 5364 camp at an altitude of 1 meters in 6000 minutes, delivering three cylinders of oxygen and 1.5 kg of other reserves. On the way back, the drone took out the trash.
During flight tests, the average air temperature was -20 °, and the wind speed reached 15 m/s. Tests of the drone also showed that it is capable of flying at an altitude of up to 6,200 meters. In conditions of thin air and low temperatures, flights become especially difficult, which requires increased performance from the drone.
 | Drones can significantly improve logistics on Everest, make it easier to clean up litter and improve the safety of climbers. Previously, these tasks were carried out by local guides who had to cross the Khumbu glacier more than 30 times a season, which often led to tragedies. |  |
The use of delivery drones can make it much easier to work on Everest for Nepali Sherpa guides, who have to cross the Khumbu Glacier, located between mountaineer camps, more than 30 times in a single climbing season, at risk of life, to deliver oxygen cylinders, equipment and food.
| | Last year, I lost three Sherpa conductors while trying to transport supplies through a glacier. The use of drones will reduce the number of dangerous crossings and save time. | |
Drones can also help clean up the mountain from debris. Thousands of climbers visit Everest every year, leaving tons of waste behind them. About 140 tonnes of rubbish has accumulated on the slopes since climbing Mount Everest began. Last month, a Nepali company hired by the government launched a project to use drones to clean up the southern slope of the mountain.
2020
Everest is 86 centimeters higher
China and Nepal announced the results of new measurements of the highest mountain on Earth, Everest. Now the height of the mountain is officially 8848.86 meters. Xinhua News Agency [139573158.htm|http://www.xinhuanet.com/english/2020-12/08/c 139573158.htm]
Last October, Kathmandu and Beijing agreed to jointly declare the height of the mountain. Specialists from the PRC climbed this peak in May 2020. The height of the mountain was measured using the Beidou national navigation system.
Plans to re-measure the mountain's height have emerged from the Nepalese government amid speculation that the world's highest mountain has become lower following a series of powerful earthquakes in the spring of 2015.
Previously, Nepal adhered to the point of view that the height of the mountain is 8848 m (an indicator recorded in 1954 by Indian topographers).
5G station launched on Everest
In mid-May 2020, it became known that Huawei and China Mobile Communications launched a 5G station on Everest, setting a world record for the height of such a base station from sea level. Read more here.
1953: The First Conquest of Everest
See also
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