Grey cosmetology

2024

Plastic surgery clinics in Philippines make criminals new faces

In mid-July 2024, it was revealed that clandestine clinics in the Philippines offer plastic surgery services to fugitives and workers at rogue centers to help them avoid arrest. Two such illegal clinics will be closed following a police search in May 2024. Read more here.

The gray cosmetology market in Russia reached a record volume

The gray cosmetology market in Russia has reached a record volume, which is of serious concern among industry experts. At the end of 2023, the share of counterfeit drugs and medical devices used in aesthetic medicine amounted to almost 40% of the total market volume, reaching 100 billion rubles. This became known on June 25, 2024.

Analysts at the Right to Health consulting company note that anesthetics unregistered in Russia already account for more than half of the market - 55%, which significantly exceeds the previous year. In 2022, this figure was 48%. Experts attribute such growth to the departure of a number of Western brands from the Russian market and weak regulation of the industry.

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In 2023, three drugs registered in Russia based on lipolitics and 22 unregistered drugs were used in cosmetic procedures, which demonstrates the scale of the problem. The gray market share of biorevitalizants reached 42%, fillers - 20%, botulinum toxins - 10%.

According to the resolution of the working group "Business Russia," market participants proposed a number of measures to combat gray turnover. In particular, it is proposed to give Roszdravnadzor the authority to block sites offering illegal medical services or goods. It is also proposed to prohibit the import of drugs and medical devices for cosmetology for personal use, if their use requires special medical knowledge.

Olga Goncharova, executive director of the Right to Health consulting company, stressed that new forms of the gray market are emerging, including fakes of the fillers themselves and permits for them. She expressed hope for a gradual reduction in the shadow segment due to the mandatory labeling of all medical devices from March 1, 2024 and fillers from September 1, 2024.

Yulia Frangulova, co-founder of the National Association of Aesthetic Medicine Clinics (NAKEM), confirmed that the gray market share is growing and will continue to grow, and also noted an increase in the number of complications from home cosmetology. In 2023, the number of such appeals increased 2.7 times. Frangulova expects support in the form of an increase in fines for illegal entrepreneurship in medicine.^[1]

Up to 50% of injectables are sold illegally and potentially dangerous

Along with legal clinics and beauty salons, there is a "gray" market for cosmetology, where unregistered drugs are used and services are provided in institutions that do not have appropriate licenses. In 2024, the Right to Health consulting company conducted a study of the aesthetic medicine market, revealing that the most critical and dangerous situation for consumers is developing precisely in the segment of injectable cosmetology, where services such as botulin therapy, contour plastic, biorevitalization, mesotherapy and thread lifting are provided.

"In the total volume of problems of the injectable cosmetology market, the turnover of illegal drugs, drugs that do not have a marketing authorization or have fake documents is of particular concern. For example, if we consider the segment of anesthetics, then the share of gray drugs in it was 55%! If you look at lipolitics, last year only 3 drugs officially registered in the country and 22 unregistered drugs were used for procedures. One of the main channels for the distribution of such medicines is the well-known marketplaces, "says Olga Goncharova, executive director of the Right to Health company.

In the biorevitalization segment, the ratio of legal and illegal drugs is 58% and 42%, that is, almost half of the products used can be potentially dangerous. The situation with fillers is slightly better - here the volume of gray drugs is 20%. But here, in addition to unregistered products, there are so far isolated situations in which drugs with a fake registration certificate are used, as was the case with the illegal sale of Karisma filler.

In terms of botulinum toxins, despite the fact that the gray market share from this category is slightly less than 10% (8.2%), there is another problem: the sale of products registered as a drug through cosmetology forums on the websites of institutions that do not have a license for pharmaceutical activities. This entails a complete loss of control over the quality of the products sold at the seller-consumer stage.

It is noteworthy that consumers of beauty injections themselves are not always interested in what level of services they are provided with. As a survey conducted by the Right to Health consulting company together with VTsIOM showed, only 52% of Russians surveyed who use the services of cosmetologists are always interested in what drugs are used for procedures and whether there is a certificate for them, and a quarter (25%) are not interested in this at all.

2023: In St. Petersburg, a surgeon was sentenced to 9 years in prison for illegal plastic surgery

On December 14, 2023, the Vasileostrovsky District Court of St. Petersburg sentenced in a criminal case against surgeon Guram Papiashvili. For illegal plastic surgery, resulting in the death of the patient, he was sentenced to 9 years in prison. Anesthesiologist Sergei Koptsov was also convicted as part of the case. Read more here.

2022: A case was opened in Dagestan after the death of a Muscovite as a result of plastic surgery in a clinic

The Investigative Department of the Investigative Committee of the Russian Federation for the Republic of Dagestan opened a criminal case on the grounds of a crime under paragraph "c" of Part 2 of Art. 238 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation (provision of services that do not meet the safety requirements of consumer life, resulting in negligence causing death to a person).

According to investigators, on May 16, 2022, a 44-year-old resident of Moscow underwent plastic surgery in one of the private medical centers of the city of Khasavyurt. On May 19, 2022, the patient's condition worsened, in connection with which she was transferred to the Khasavyurt Central City Hospital, where she died a few hours later.

In Dagestan, a case was opened after the death of a Muscovite as a result of plastic surgery

During the investigation of the criminal case, the necessary medical documentation was seized, a forensic medical examination was appointed to establish the exact cause of death.

By the end of May 2022, comprehensive investigative actions are being carried out aimed at establishing all the circumstances of the incident, as well as the culprit of the medical institution. The criminal investigation is ongoing.

This is not the first time that Russians have died after the intervention of plastic surgeons. In August 2021, a 31-year-old resident of St. Petersburg died during facial surgery. In March 2020, a Muscovite died after correcting the nasal septum by surgeons of one of the capital's clinics. Having regained consciousness, the man felt bad, after which his heart stopped.^[2]

2021

Russian woman died after receiving a cosmetologist who worked without a license

In mid-November 2021, a criminal case was opened in Tyumen on the fact of providing services in the field of cosmetology that do not meet safety requirements, resulting in the death of a person by negligence (paragraph "c" of part 2 of article 238 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation). Due to the actions of a 52-year-old woman, her patient died.

According to the press service of the Investigative Department of the Investigative Committee of the Russian Federation for the Tyumen Region, the tragedy happened on September 29, 2021 at about 16.00. On this day, the suspect at home provided cosmetic services to a 46-year-old city dweller.

Russian woman died after an appointment with a beautician who worked without a license

At the same time, she does not have the necessary medical education, as well as a license to carry out the relevant services, the ICR reported. The names of the patient and specialists were not disclosed.

By mid-November 2021, employees of the department establish all the circumstances of the tragedy. The criminal investigation is ongoing.

Home cosmetic procedures and plastic surgeries often cause criminal proceedings due to the fact that a person provides services without medical education and in inappropriate conditions.

The need to tighten responsibility for the provision of services by cosmetologists without a license and in inappropriate conditions was previously announced by a specialized association - the National Association of Clinics of Aesthetic Medicine (NAKEM). The fine for such specialists was proposed to be increased from 500-2,000 rubles (under Article 14.1 of the Administrative Code of the Russian Federation) to 500 thousand rubles.

Concern was caused, among other things, by the lockdown introduced in connection with the COVID-19 pandemic - due to the restriction of planned medical care, the risk of redeployment of cosmetologists from licensed clinics to home conditions was high.

According to Natalia Manturova, the chief freelance plastic surgeon of the Ministry of Health of the Russian Federation, the patient himself must take care not to become a victim of a homeworker or a person who provides medical services without medical education.^[3]

Clandestine production of cosmetological equipment discovered in the Tomsk region

In the Tomsk region found underground production of cosmetological equipment. This was announced on April 6, 2021 by the regional department of the Investigative Committee of the Russian Federation.

According to preliminary data, in the period from March 2018 to July 2020, employees of one of the Tomsk commercial organizations that does not have special permission (licenses) for the production and maintenance of medical equipment, more than 100 devices for medical laser procedures were produced, which were then purchased by other commercial organizations in the Russian Federation for a total amount of more than 120 million rubles, the agency said in a statement quoted by TASS Information Agency of Russia.

According to an agency source in law enforcement agencies, we are talking about cosmetological laser equipment "designed for depilation, photo rejuvenation, removal of tattoos and pigment spots." These devices were supplied to commercial organizations throughout the country.

Clandestine production of cosmetological equipment worth 120 million rubles was discovered in the Tomsk region

Law enforcement officers searched the place of production of medical devices and the warehouse of component products, and also interrogated the employees of the manufacturer. In addition, investigators seized the company's documentation.

The Investigative Committee of the Russian Federation for the Tomsk Region opened a criminal case on the production of medical devices without a license (paragraph "b" of part 2 of article 2351 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation). The case was opened on the basis of materials provided by the Department of Economic Security and Anti-Corruption of the Regional Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia.

This is not the first case of the supply of "gray" medical equipment in the Tomsk region in 2021. In March, the prosecutor's office of the Tomsk region approved the indictment in another case on the production of falsified medical equipment - radiographic devices totaling 56 million rubles.^[4] In the ^[5]

Owner of a clinic in Moscow sentenced to prison for plastic surgery without a license

In March 2021, the Simonovsky Court of Moscow sentenced Gulnara Shah to 22 months in a general regime colony for the fact that plastic surgeons operated in her clinic in Moscow without an appropriate license. Read more here.

Ingushetia opened a criminal case on the death of a woman after liposuction

As it became known on January 22, 2021, a criminal case was opened in Ingushetia on the death of a patient after a liposuction procedure in a private clinic VIP clinic Amina. Read more here.

2020

Cosmetologist Yulia Kachanova sentenced to 2 years in a general regime colony for the death of a patient

In mid-October 2020, the Dorogomilovsky District Court sentenced cosmetologist Yulia Kachan to two years in a general regime colony for the death of a patient. The doctor was found guilty of committing a crime under Part 2 of Art. 238 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation (provision of services that do not meet the requirements of the safety of life or health of consumers, resulting in the death of a person by negligence). Read more here.

Detention of the head physician of cosmetology with a fake diploma in Moscow

On August 18, 2020, the chief physician with a fake diploma was detained in Moscow. She worked as a cosmetologist in one of the medical institutions.

According to the TV channel "Ren TV" with reference to the materials of the investigation, Svetlana Sh. Bought a diploma of Kabardino-Balkarian State University named after H.M. Berbekov on awarding her the qualification of a doctor in the specialty "Medical case." The university itself reported that they did not issue such a diploma.

On July 7, 2018, according to forged documents, she entered to work as a head physician in one of the Moscow clinics. In this position, Svetlana worked until April 29, 2020. The clinic management had suspicions of deception, and it turned to the police. A criminal case has been opened on the fact of forgery of documents.

In Moscow, detained the head physician of cosmetology with a fake diploma

According to Ren TV, social networks write that Svetlana's medical experience is almost 30 years old, and over the past 20 years has reached a high level in dermatology and cosmetology, specializing in the field of Botox and mesotherapy.

By August 19, 2020, it is not known whether there are any victims of cosmetological procedures conducted by Svetlana Sh. At the same time, many cases of deformity by false cosmetologists are registered in Russia. So, in August 2020, in Ussuriysk, Primorsky Territory, law enforcement agencies completed an investigation into the case of a cosmetologist who spoiled the client's face.

According to the investigation, in April 2016, the woman turned to the Far Eastern Center for Medical Cosmetology to remove two inflammatory formations on her face. The cosmetologist, not having the appropriate education, promised a "beautiful" injection that will remove inflammation. After medical manipulation, the woman developed post-injection granulomas on her face. The posing doctor used topical lotion for injections.^[6]

Disfigured 19 women "cosmetologist" received 5.5 years in prison

On August 17, 2020, the Savyolovsky Court of Moscow sentenced Natalya Korosteleva to 5.5 years in a general regime colony for providing poor-quality cosmetic services, due to which the patients received various injuries. Read more here.

Brazilian rapper enlarges buttocks in clinic without license and dies

In early August 2020, it became known that 43-year-old Brazilian rap singer Fernanda Rodriguez, who performed under the pseudonym Mc Atrevida, died shortly after she enlarged her buttocks. The operation was carried out by a clinic in Rio de Janeiro, which lost its license. Read more here.

Artisanal production of products for cosmetic injections covered in Moscow

On July 14, 2020, the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia announced the suppression of artisanal production of products for cosmetic injections in Moscow. According to law enforcement agencies, the attackers made drugs containing hyaluronic acid for subcutaneous injections under the brand of a foreign company (her name is not indicated in the ministry's message).

Operatives of the Department of Economic Security and Anti-Corruption of the Internal Affairs Directorate for the South-Western Administrative District of the Main Directorate of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia in Moscow detained five people. They also ordered 10 ml glass vials and foreign brand details labels through third-party organizations. Hyaluronic acid injections are used in cosmetology - for example, to rejuvenate the skin of the face.

We are talking about Muscovites aged 53 to 76 years. They all have a medical background. They advertised their products on the Internet, and used a specially organized wholesale cosmetic company to sell medicines. The Ministry of Internal Affairs does not give the scale of activity of "businessmen".

Artisanal production of products for cosmetic injections covered in Moscow

In relation to the four suspects, a preventive measure was chosen in the form of a recognizance not to leave the place and proper behavior. In relation to the fifth person involved - in the form of house arrest. The Investigative Committee opened a criminal case on the grounds of a crime under Article 238.1 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation. The maximum punishment under this article is five years in prison.

Searches were carried out in the homes of the group members and the premises of the underground production of medicines. Seized drugs intended for artisanal manufacture of the drug. In addition, items and documents were found that reflect information about the distribution channels of counterfeit products.

Investigators began to find out which of the doctors of cosmetologists used the falsification, and how the injections affected the health of patients.^[7]

Russian women on self-isolation made 0.5 million illegal injections

From March 30 to June 14, 2020, the number of illegal cosmetic injections performed at home or in institutions without registration increased almost 2.3 times compared to the same period of the previous year and reached 551 thousand units in the amount of 5.6 billion rubles. This is evidenced by the data released on July 1 by the analytical center of the pharmaceutical publication "GMP News."

Experts estimate the share of the gray segment of the injectable cosmetology market at 17.9%, which is 14.5 percentage points more than a year ago.

Self-isolation regime for more than two months stopped the work of beauty salons and cosmetology clinics

Immediately after the restrictive measures introduced to combat the COVID-19 coronavirus pandemic, sales of injectable cosmetology products from distributors practically stopped: most clinics, even those entitled to continue their activities, preferred to stop working in the absence of customers. However, soon sales of drugs began to recover due to sales to individuals - they accounted for 50% of all purchases of such products in April.

Analysts interviewed 600 cosmetologists and found that only 64% of all suspended activities during the pandemic. In total, there are 35 thousand specialists in Russia by the beginning of July 2020.

At home, biorevitalizants were more often injected (about 200 thousand procedures), less - cosmetological threads (15 thousand). Often home procedures are cheaper by about 18%,  writes RBC.

Some of the specialists who decided to work part-time at home during the period of self-isolation may not return to the clinics, says Natalia Gavrilova, chairman of the council of the National Association of Aesthetic Medicine Clinics. In her opinion, it is necessary to tighten responsibility for the provision of cosmetic services in inappropriate conditions and without a medical license, as well as prohibit the sale of such products to individuals.^[8]

2019: Share of illegal products and services

According to Vademecum estimates, based on surveys of distribution companies, manufacturers, the real share of the gray market in the segments of fillers, biorevitalizers, botulinum toxins can be from 30 to 50%.

In Moscow, for 2019, about 6,000 cosmetologists with higher medical education officially work. However, it is not known how many "beauty specialists" work "in the dark": for example, with or without secondary medical education, without permits for the activities of licenses and with non-compliance with the rules for the use of drugs. All this leads to severe consequences in patients and long-term treatment under the supervision of a qualified, professional doctor.

In addition to unqualified specialists in the cosmetic services market, another problem is unregistered drugs. Now, it takes at least nine years to bring a medical product to the market. This time is enough to prove effectiveness and safety. Not a single drug will appear in official circulation without the approval of Roszdravnadzor. Its specialists conduct their own tests and only after them issue a permit for use.

Criminal liability

Criminal liability with fines up to 5 million rubles. for the sale of unregistered medical products up to 100,000 rubles. was introduced into the Administrative Code of Offenses only in 2016. As of September 2019, 13 criminal cases were opened in the Moscow region and two sentences were issued, in Russia there are more than two hundred of them for all types of products. The first criminal case, which was initiated under the article for forging documents for medical products: a young man with the help of xerox and printer, respectively, forged the registration certificate of Roszdravnadzor for products. And passing it off as legal, he handed it over to the supplier. The first criminal case ended with the conviction of this young man for five years.

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