Clothing (Russian market)

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Clothing (Moscow market)

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Children's clothing (Russian market)

• Children's clothing (Russian market)

2024

Russia's largest sportswear chains named

At the end of May 2024, Analytical Research Group (ARG) named the largest sportswear chains in Russia. The study showed that almost 7 thousand sportswear and footwear stores operate in 50 large cities of the country, of which about 600 are among the largest retailers in this segment.

According to ARG, the leader in the number of retail outlets is the Sportmaster chain, which includes stores of the same name, as well as points under the Columbia and DEMIX brands. In total, the Sportmaster chain has 360 stores, which significantly exceeds the performance of other retailers. The second place is taken by Snickerbox LLC, which manages the SneakerBOX network (formerly Reebok) with 77 stores. The third place belongs to the StreetBeat chain, owned by Reinvent LLC, with 53 retail outlets.

Other large chains include Oktoblu LLC (DeSport, formerly Decathlon) with 30 stores, Kupishuz LLC (Lamoda Sport Outlet) with 22 stores and IFC Jamilko JSC (TrendZone, formerly New Balance) with 20 stores. These companies make up a significant part of the sportswear and footwear market in Russia.

The ARG study also showed that a significant number of stores are concentrated in Moscow, St. Petersburg and Novosibirsk. These cities have the largest and most developed networks. However, Sochi, Irkutsk and Kaliningrad are leading in terms of the number of stores per resident, which indicates a high demand for sports goods in these regions.

The presence of retailers in offline retail was studied on the basis of data from the geoinformation system "2 GIS." Among the 10 large retailers included in the rating in terms of sales revenue for 2022, Sportmaster confidently ranks first, significantly ahead of competitors.

According to ARG analysts, the sportswear and footwear market in Russia will continue to develop despite external and internal economic challenges. The growing public interest in healthy lifestyles and sports is driving demand for sporting goods, opening up new opportunities for retail chains.^[1]

South Korean clothing brand Hazzys entered the Russian market

On June 13, 2024, it became known that the South Korean brand of men's and women's clothing of the premium segment Hazzys entered the Russian market. The first brand store opens in the Aviapark shopping center, located in Moscow on the Khodynsky field. Read more here.

Clothing manufacturer Happy Easy Anyway enters the Russian market

On April 11, 2024, it became known that the development company Malltech entered into a cooperation agreement with the Chinese retailer Happy Easy Anyway (HEA). As part of the partnership, HEA clothing stores will appear in various cities of Russia. Read more here.

South Korean clothing brand for recreation and everyday life Lifework enters the Russian market

In early April 2024, it became known that the South Korean brand of clothing for recreation and everyday life Lifework was entering the market Russia and. Kazakhstan The first store of the brand begins work in the shopping and entertainment center "," Fleet located in the To Moscow Khodynsky field. More. here

Chinese children's clothing brand Balabala entered the Russian market

On March 7, 2024, it became known that the Chinese brand of children's clothing Balabala entered the Russian market, the assortment of which includes clothes, shoes, underwear and accessories. The brand is owned by Semir Group - a leading Chinese multi-brand clothing company. Read more here.

2023

Growth in sales of used clothing and footwear in Russia by 30% to 200 billion rubles

Sales of used clothing and footwear in Russia in 2023 increased by 30% and reached ₽200 billion, taking 6% of the total market turnover. Such data from Fashion Consulting Group (FCG) were released in mid-July 2024.

According to Kommersant, the departure of foreign brands contributed to the active development of resale in Russia. The volume of orders through private byers has grown: previously, luxury, exclusive or very popular things were purchased like this, including Zara clothes. According to Nikoliers partner Anna Nikandrova, the expansion of the channel contributes to the emergence of a large volume of unclaimed things that did not fit in size, style, color. The sale of the assortment is often carried out by the customers themselves, often we are talking about actually new things.

Sales of used clothing and footwear in Russia in 2023 increased by 30% and reached ₽200 billion

Nikita Shashkevich, head of Lifestyle at Avito, calls interest in resale a global trend. In the United States, it forms at least 8% of the fashion market.

The ability to find unusual things attracts about 40% of buyers, 15% of sales now fall on the premium segment, he notes.

According to FCG, savings are the motivation for 53% of buyers, and environmental ethics is important for 15% of customers. The wardrobe of Russian buyers is reduced, they make less spontaneous purchases.

Resale is associated with online sales. In addition to Russian marketplaces and social networks, consumers use foreign services such as eBay, Amazon, Rebag and Vestiaire Collective. At the same time, CORE.XP consultants pay attention to the development of secondary sales offline: a resale corner appeared in TSUM, an Oskelly store operates in Stoleshnikov Lane.

Alexey Vanchugov, Managing Partner of Vanchugov & Partners, warns that initially secondary sales of clothing and shoes are of interest to a limited audience. The market stimulates the flow of foreign manufacturers, but over time it will be supplanted by Russian brands, tolerance to which is growing. According to FCG, local brands already form 90.3% of the turnover of the 100 largest retailers, three quarters of buyers believe that these brands are competitive at the world level.^[2]

Growth in sales of suits by 22.3% to 181.6 million units

In 2023, sales of costume clothing in Russia reached approximately 181.6 million units. Growth compared to the previous year, when 148.5 million such products were sold, was recorded at 22.3%. Such figures are given in BusinesStat materials published on April 16, 2024.

By costume clothing, analysts mean trousers, breeches, skirts and trouser skirts of all kinds (and not just pieces of classic costume style), as well as costumes and kits, jackets, jackets and blazers. It is noted that in 2023 the growth in sales of the products under consideration was of a restorative nature. In 2022, the volume of sales decreased by 27.3%, which, according to the authors of the study, is associated with a decrease in real incomes of the population against the background of a difficult macroeconomic situation and the formed geopolitical situation.

However, despite the positive dynamics in 2023, the industry could not reach the level of 2021, when about 204.2 million costume products were sold. At the same time, the growth in demand led to a corresponding increase in supply. Moreover, in 2023, the expansion was provided not so much by the increase in Russian clothing production as by imports - primarily from China. The share of the PRC in the import of costume products to Russia in 2023 amounted to 35.9%.

In general, from 2019 to 2023, sales of costume clothing in Russia decreased by 8.3%. The number of such products in the wardrobe of Russians tends to decrease, while the share of looser and more comfortable clothes (primarily knitted) is growing. In addition, during the period under review, the total sales of costume clothing recorded an increase in the share of products for men: it rose from 42.4% to 44.3%. At the same time, the share of women's clothing decreased from 57.6% to 55.7%.^[3]

The volume of clothing production in Moscow over 5 years has grown 62 times

Over the past five years, the volume of clothing production in Moscow has increased 62.4 times. Moscow Mayor Sergei Sobyanin announced this on May 28, 2024 in his Telegram channel, noting that the departure of foreign brands created new opportunities for metropolitan manufacturers and contributed to the rapid growth of the industry. Read more here.

Sportswear sales up 29% to 31.8m units in 2 years

In 2023, 31.8 million units of sportswear were sold in Russia, which is 29% more than two years ago, and in comparison with 2022, the market volume increased by 8.7%. Such data in the analytical agency BusinesStat presented in February 2024.

As noted in the study, sales of sportswear in the Russian Federation continue to recover from a fall during the COVID-19 coronavirus pandemic. In 2023, the market was in an active phase of restructuring and development, experts say. According to them, sales of sportswear in Russia at the end of 2023 increased due to the resumption of growth in household income, an increase in the popularity of various sports and physical activity. All these factors contributed to the fact that the market size in 2023 was above the pre-pandemic 2019 mark by 4.6%, according to BusinesStat.

Sales of sportswear in Russia are growing despite the departure of large foreign brands, including Adidas, Nike, Reebok and Decathlon. Their places were taken by domestic manufacturers and retailers, as well as companies from China. Among the latter, the Li-Ning brand stands out, according to the report of BusinesStat. Analysts call parallel imports another driver of growth in the Russian sportswear market.

Researchers call the following companies the largest manufacturers of sportswear in Russia:

• Gloria Jeans;
• "Alice Fashion Rus";
• Sharm Factory LLC;
• OOO "Fakel-Special Clothing";
• LLC "Iniko."

The shares of these manufacturers in the study are not given. In their reports, BusinesStat analysts take the data of Rosstat (domestic production) and the Federal Customs Service (export and import) as a basis, and then use expert assessments and their own research on retail and wholesale trade to calculate warehouse stocks, shadow production and other factors that affect the market.^[4]

The share of clothing stores of foreign brands in Moscow in 2 years decreased from 50.3% to 36.4%

By the end of 2023, the share of foreign stores in Moscow shopping centers of the regional and super-regional format was 36.4%. For comparison, at the end of 2021, this value was 50.3%. Thus, a drop of 13.9% was recorded. The corresponding figures were announced on February 22, 2024 by the Russian Council of Shopping Centers (RSTC).

According to the Vedomosti newspaper, from 2021 to 2023, the share of domestic fashion brands in shopping centers increased by an average of 20%. This is due to the outflow of foreign companies that have curtailed their activities in the Russian Federation in the current geopolitical situation. The areas of departed foreign sellers began to be actively occupied by Russian retailers. For example, in the metropolitan shopping center "Metropolis" the share of foreign tenants at the end of 2023 was approximately 43%, while two years earlier it reached 69%. In particular, in 2023, Melon Fashion Group (brands Zarina, Befree, Love Republic, Sela, Idol) opened and relocated over 200 stores to large areas.

The share of foreign stores in Moscow shopping centers of regional and super-regional format amounted to 36.4%

The trend in the redistribution of retail space in favor of domestic fashion retailers is also observed in other Russian regions, where foreign companies that left the country were present.

In early October 2023, NF Group reported that Russian brands occupied more than 85% of the space in 22 Moscow shopping centers after large international retailers left the country - Swedish H&M and Japanese Uniqlo. The vacated premises are rented by such domestic retailers as Gloria Jeans, Lime, Just Clothes, Befree, Outletium, Blind Chicken, Offprice, Snezhnaya Koroleva, Love Republic, Sela and others. High demand for these areas remains due to the quality of the shopping centers themselves, the decoration of stores and their favorable location.^[5]

Clothing manufacturers who left Russia file lawsuits over parallel imports

The US and EU authorities forced some foreign companies to leave the Russian market after the start of a special operation of the Russian Armed Forces in Ukraine. As a result, arbitration courts throughout Russia - from the Novosibirsk to the Rostov region - from October 2022 literally bombarded with claims from the American company Calvin Klein Trademark Trust, which demands compensation from companies and individual entrepreneurs from 50,000 to 310,000 rubles for violation of the exclusive right to the trademark.

In addition, the arbitration courts of the Novosibirsk and Sverdlovsk regions are considering three lawsuits from the American manufacturer of jeans Levi Strauss & Co, filed in December 2022 and January 2023, and two lawsuits from the German manufacturer of sportswear Puma SE to stores in Novosibirsk, filed in January.

2022: Fur shortages and rising prices as demand for fur coats slows

Due to the sanctions imposed by the EU on Russia after the start of a special operation in Ukraine, and the mass extermination of minks in Denmark, fur coats producers in Russia faced a shortage of fur and rising prices for raw materials. This has already led to a reduction in the range of stores, which already have a drop in demand for fur products.

2021: In Russia, sales of fur coats fell - by 0.5%; revenue up 2%

In 2021, 624,764 fur coats were sold in Russia, which is 0.5% less than a year earlier. However, revenue from the sale of these fur products increased by 2%, to 40.1 billion rubles. This is evidenced by the data of the labeling operator of the Center for the Development of Advanced Technologies (CRPT), published in March 2022.

In 2019, when there was no COVID-19 coroanvirus pandemic yet, residents of Russia purchased more than 1 million fur coats. Regarding this indicator, sales of fur goods in 2021 decreased by more than 40%.

Most of all, residents of Moscow and the Moscow region spent on fur coats (a total of more than 21.8 billion rubles), the Kirov region (3.3 billion rubles), the Stavropol Territory (2 billion rubles), St. Petersburg (1.7 billion rubles) and the Chelyabinsk region (825 million rubles).

Compared to 2020, the rating has practically not changed, only in fourth place St. Petersburg replaced the Novosibirsk region, which by the end of 2021 was not included in the top 10 subjects of the country in terms of fur coat costs, said Deputy General Director of the CRPT Revaz Yusupov.

According to the statistics of the CRPT, in 2021, sheepskin products came out on top in popularity - 313 thousand 930 units, followed by mink fur products - 259 thousand 942 units and fox fur products - 12 thousand 999 units. In 2020, mink fur products were the most popular products. According to the amount of expenses of Russians, the first place is taken by mink fur products, on which more than 24 billion rubles were spent. The second and third places, respectively, are occupied by sheepskin (11.3 billion rubles) and nutria (almost 1 billion rubles).

At the end of 2021, Wildberries reported that Russians began to buy more fur coats, household appliances and jewelry amid high inflation.^[6]

2020

The largest online clothing and footwear sellers in Russia

Online sales of clothing and footwear in Russia at the end of 2020 amounted to 382 billion rubles, which is 35% more than a year earlier. Such data in June 2021 were cited by Data Insight analysts.

According to their estimates, the average check for the purchase of clothes and shoes on the Internet amounted to 1,770 rubles (-3% by 2019), and the number of orders - 215 million (+ 40%).

The share of online clothing and footwear stores in 2020 accounted for 27% of the Russian e-commerce market in terms of the number of online orders and 15% in terms of online sales in rubles.

The conversion of online clothing and footwear stores in 2020 amounted to 4.5% (4.5 orders per 100 site visits). The nearest indicators of perfume online stores and online auto stores are 5.1% and 3.1%, respectively.

Wildberries became the first among online sellers of clothing and footwear in Russia in 2020 in terms of sales, gaining a share of 54%. Next are and Lamoda. Ozon Also in the top ten were Adidas Bonprix,,,, and H&M. KupiVIP Rendez-Vouz CENTRAL DEPARTMENT STORE Zara

The study also says that 93% of online stores use courier delivery, 92% use pickup points, 75% use Russian Post, 58% use checkpoints.

Of the 109 online clothing and footwear stores included in the TOP-1000 of online retailers, 91% are companies (JSC/CJSC/OJSC/LLC). 9% are owned by individual entrepreneurs. 73% of sites are registered in Moscow and the Moscow region, 8% - in St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region. 19% of online stores are registered in other regions of Russia.

According to Data Insight, in 2020, 47% of online clothing and footwear stores used proprietary CMS (CMS - system for creating, managing and editing site content). Bitrix is used by 34% of online stores. 19% use other CMSs. 32% of online clothing and footwear stores did not have a newsletter.^[7]

The Russian clothing and footwear market sank by 25%, sales on the Internet increased

The volume of the Russian fashion market (clothing and footwear) in 2020 amounted to 1.7 trillion rubles, which is 25% less than a year earlier, when the turnover was measured at 2.29 trillion rubles. This is evidenced by data from the Fashion Consulting Group (FCG).

Adaptation to the working conditions in a pandemic, investments in various anti-crisis measures and forced discounts led to the zeroing of net profit from many fashion companies that experienced difficulties with sales even before the crisis, - explained the state of the market FCG CEO Anna Lebsak-Kleimans (quoted by Kommersant).

Online sales have become an "inevitability" in the fashion market, FCG notes. In 2020, the turnover of online commerce increased by 11% to 245.2 billion rubles.

Irina Ryabko, managing director of Tsvetnoy department store, told the publication that the lack of an Internet platform led to more than two months of downtime in its work in the spring, as a result, trade turnover decreased by 19% over the year. Representatives of Stockmann and Melon Fashion Group (Befree, Love Republic, Zarina and Sela) also reported a loss of a significant share of revenue due to the spring quarantine. But the growth of online sales allowed Melon Fashion to achieve positive indicators in 2020 compared to 2019.

Sportmaster's share of online sales on an annualized basis increased 10 times. At Stockmann, Internet sales in turnover increased to 15%.

According to Anna Lebsak-Kleimans, the COVID-19 coronavirus pandemic has also led to a change in the rules in rental relations - retailers are trying to switch to short-term leases, exclude sanctions from contracts and get the opportunity to quickly transform space under new conditions. At the same time, as Boris Matsa, deputy director of the trade real estate department at Colliers International, clarified to Kommersant, the amount of fines for tenants remains at the level of 2019.^[8]

Notes